Day 11 - Leimuiden

Saturday 13^th June 2015 – Leimuiden, Westeinderplassen

This morning it is  wet and windy with a south westerly wind force 5/6.

Wet and Very Windy

After a shower, I made use of the marina’s laundry, using their washing machine and drier.

From the young harbour masters, I learnt how to use the Dutch inland water books on the bridges, times of opening and different marina facilities, these books of course are written in Dutch.  While, I also gleaned information, on the night convoy through Amsterdam.

Out on Kagerplassen (lake), there were many dinghies out racing and learning how to sail in these very blustery conditions, they were all getting very wet.

Kaag Island Ferry

At 13.30 we left the marina, happy to clear the entrance without touching anything.

This little ferry runs between the mainland and Kaag Island on the canal which is only 20 metres wide.  We were now back in the main canal, Ringvaart and heading east.

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We were passed by this delightful miniature Dutch sailing work boat (botter) in a wonderful condition, you may notice on the aft end is a black Labrador, looking as though he is in charge.

There were two more bridges to pass through, Weteringbrug and Leimuidenbrug in these conditions, it was not pleasant being driven onto the lay-by by the strong stern wind.  The bigger motor cruisers were not having much of a problem, using their twin engines and bow thruster to keep station in the middle of the canal.

Unusual Place to Live

This looked like an ideal spot to live, with an allotment attached at the back and a small boat for a trip to the nearest watering hole.

At 15.30 we left the Ringvaart and motored through the Wilde Gat, a gap through the reed beds into the Westeinderplassen (lake) and headed for the south west end and Kempers Princesspaviljeon marina.

We had to move the boat, as we had come into the marina at the wrong entrance, and it was not pretty getting lined up to the visitor’s pontoon, so the strong wind would be on the bows for the night, but all finished for 18.30.

A fifteen minute walk ashore to Leimuiden, to the supermarket but it was closed.  In the town, it was very lively with a funfair going on.  Lots of noise; kids, parents and others, all in the local pub ‘Café Rene’ getting stuck into the drink.  I had one beer served in a plastic cup; I was not in the mood for this, after today, I needed somewhere to relax, so back on board for 19.30.

Another, fruity malt, cheese, ham, tomato night with our own music, just what I needed, after a bit of a stressful day.

Day 10 - Kaag, Island

Friday 12^th June 2015 – Kaag Island, Kagerplassen

A hot sunny day, and shorts being the rig of the day.

Marina

 

Millionaires' Row

Heemstede marina is an amazing place, beautifully kept and at the end of a millionaires row of houses, along a tributary off the main canal and off the beaten track.  

A night stop costing 8 euros, unbelievable.

Being from an engineering background my guides books told me visit the Cruquius Museum.

Cruquius Museum

Without enclosure and drainage, more than half of the area of present day Netherlands would be flooded with every high tide, every wet season, or permanently.  The struggle for the country’s survival has largely determined its appearance and left numerous marks on it.

In the triangle between the cities of Amsterdam, Haarlem and Lieden the 45,000 acres (football pitches) Haarlemmermeer polder demonstrates an extraordinary step in the scale of land drainage.

The reclamation of the Haarlemmermeer by means of steam marked a breakthrough of the industrial revolution of the Netherlands.  ‘De Cruquius’ commissioned in 1849. Pumped Lake Haarlem empty in 3 years and three months with two identical steam-pumping stations.

Entrance

The Cruquius was decommissioned in 1932, it was adopted as a museum to save it from demolition.  The museum opened in 1936, making it one of the first technical museums in the world.

Architectural Marvel

 

How it works

The Cruquius houses the world’s largest steam engine: its main cylinder has a diameter of 3.66 meters.

The engine room, unchanged since 1849, is a miracle of Victorian technology.

The principle of the machinery is based on Cornish pumping used to pump water out of deep mines.

I arrived at the museum at 10.00 and looked to be the first visitor and I was given my own personnel guide, who took me through all of the exhibits.  Although all of the boilers have been removed, some of the other machinery he was able to operate on air.

Steam Engine

When he operated the main machinery with the crosshead held up by the huge piston rod, onto the crosshead were also attached the eight levers which operated the pumps outside, I was in my element.

I was in awe of those engineers, who designed and built this enormous, functional machine which achieved everything asked of it and to see it working was great.

Theehuis Cafe

After leaving the museum, I went into the next door café situated alongside the canal and sat in the warm sunshine, drinking iced tea and reading about what I had just seen.

A twenty minute walk back to the marina, along the canal and past a very big sports complex which had twelve hockey pitches, numerous tennis courts and large indoor gymnasium, sponsored by the ABN-Ambro bank and not one football pitch to be seen.

I told the haven master my next stop was going to be the Keukenhof Gardens, famous for its tulips.

He told me it was closed at the end of season in mid-May, so change of plans and he informed, we would have to leave now, to catch the railway bridge opening at Sassenheim at 15.09.

We were back on the Ringvaart, the main canal at 13.15 heading south and passed through another four bridges, motoring above the tulip fields of Keukenhof near the town of Lisse.  There was no flower colour in the fields, so the information I had received was not a disappointment.

Spoorbrug

We were in time to see the railway Spoorbrug closing at 15.10, at Sassenheim and moved onto a lay-by berth, as the next opening was not until after the rush hour.

At the lay-by, I got my banjo out of its case for the first time this trip and had a half hour practice.

While having a cup of soup, the bridge started to open, a quick dash through at 19.50 and finished the soup at a lay –by on the other side.

Early, I had called the Fissertje marina for a berth for the night, which is situated on Kaag Island in a lake called Kagerplassen.

With my local chart and fading light, I managed to go into wrong marina, Spikerboor haven, quickly out of there and found our marina with stern mooring in our box at 21.15.

Marina restaurant

The marina restaurant ‘Benjamin’ looked after us with a meal of prawns and chips which were expensive, as was the marina fees but we were on an island.

Back on board for nightcaps of Baileys, while listening to sea shanties.  Another eventful day but the weather was changing, the wind increasing and temperature dropping.

Day 9 - Heemstede

Thursday 11^th June 2015 – Heemstede – Day 9

Haarlem has a rich history dating back to the Roman times and became one of the important cities in the Netherlands.  During the Eighty Years’ War, Haarlem fiercely opposed Spanish rule.  It became the settlement for many Flemish people, famous painters and architects have over the years added to the richness of the city.

Haarlem quayside

Our backdrop; the ‘Nobel’ grand cafe on the quay situated in the historic building, ‘De Korenbeurs’, with the imposing St. Bavo’s Church dominates the skyline.

We would watch cars disappear underground just the other side of the quay and in the morning we went too investigated.  Below ground, there is a car park situated on two levels, amazing way to keep the city centre car friendly.  Maybe our city planners should come and learn.

St. Bavo's Church

A visit to the church which houses the famous Muller organ is very impressive and every now and then, it would burst into life filling the church with the richness of its sound.

Muller Organ

 

Models

The church has the tombs of the rich and famous from the city along with models of the old sailing ships which traded to and from this city.

Grote Market

We stopped for a while in the Grote Market Square for lunch, watching people going to and fro, while the bicycles manoeuvred their way around them.  I have never seen so many bicycles of all different shapes and sizes but of course we are in Holland.

We did witness a bit of a do, while enjoying the view.  Many bicycles were parked up against the church, one youth decided he would have one, but was quickly wrestled to the ground, cuffs put on him and slung into the arriving police car, all to the cheers and applause of the on-lookers.  We later learnt, this is a very common crime, with a 1000 bikes a week being stolen in Amsterdam alone, and most ending up in the canals.

Wooden bike outside ladies shop

  

Ultimate Cheese Shop

A walk around the shops which are many and varied, a bit of a shopper’s paradise but we had other things to see.

Happy Home

An unusual nesting place for these ducks and their chicks

A short distance along the quay from our boat is the Teylers Museum which is the oldest museum in the Netherlands (1779).  It is named after Pieter Teyler van der Huist, the founder, who was a wealthy silk merchant and banker.

Oval Room

Art Gallery

The oval room which is the jewel in the crown, the museum is full of minerals, fossils, drawings, paintings, scientific instruments and coins.  

Jack can be seen being inspired by it all.

Unfortunately, we had a scheduled to be kept to and had to leave Haarlem, a place which should be visited again.

We left the quay at 14.45 with four bridges to pass through. Melkburg (swing bridge); Langeburg (draw bridge); Buitenrustbrug (double draw bridge); Schouwbroekerbrug (draw bridge).

Spaarnborghaven (wrong)

It only took half an hour to do all of these bridges and we turned sharp right into a small marina called, Spaarneborghaven, but we were in the wrong marina, time for a cup of tea.

Cruquiusbrug

We left at 16.30 and headed south and went alongside the lay-by for the Cruquiusbrug (draw bridge) and called the operator who informed, the opening would be at 18.00.

At 18.30, we were alongside Van Merlenhaven Marina next to the Havenmeester motor cruiser.

He told us where to go for a meal and after a 15 minute walk arrived at ‘Hof Van Heemstede’.

We had a three course meal for 20 euros, consisting of thick creamy mushroom soup with real bread, chunks of meat on skewers with salad and chips, finished off with butterscotch ice cream with baileys, excellent all round in a wonderful pub.

Back on board for midnight and what a magical day, things went wrong, most of it went right but most of all, it was enjoyable.

Day 8 - Haarlem

Wednesday 10^th June 2015 – Haarlem – Day 8

A sunny day and at last it is becoming warmer.  Into the harbour office and given good information on how to negotiate the many bridges in Haarlem. 

Prior to leaving we watched a German yacht leave its berth and pass ahead of us an almighty crash as it stopped, they shouted back ‘stones’ (rocks), we will have to be careful.

Schoterbrug

Waarderbrug

We left Haarlemsche Yacht club at 10.00 and by 10.15 we passing through the draw bridge Schoterbrug, our first lifting  bridge of the day.

Then the twin lifting draw bridge Waarderbrug at 10.30 and came alongside the Harbour Master’s waiting berth at 10.45.

In the office, I was given wonderful information by the staff on the city of Haarlem with plenty of maps and brochures.  To pass through the bridges and stay a night in the town would cost 12 euros, what a bargain.

Lay-by

Dave's Bus

We moved across the river to a lay-by berth, as Dave was going home today.

We left the boat at 11.00 and walked with him to the bus station where he caught the 12.15 bus back to Ijmuiden and would leave on the ferry at 17.30 bound for Newcastle.  

Thanks Dave for the help in getting to Holland and your company.

Jack and I returned to the boat and left the quay at 13.15, we circled around in the river waiting for the next set of bridges to open.

Race for the bridges

Prinsenbrug road

Three bascule bridges one road and two rail lifting bridges

Prinsenbrug rail

Concentrate

Yes, we had come through that lot.

Windmill De Adriaan

Next passing the impressive windmill

Another two bridges Catharjinebrug, a swing bridge and the double draw bridge,  Gravenstenenbrug, before we were alongside the Spaarne quay at 14.30.

Alongside River Spaarne Quay

Fifty paces from the quay was the ‘Nobel’ bar, we sat in the sunshine and admired the scene as drank our beer, what a lovely place to park your boat.

Back on board for 17.00 for a sleep, the road and river traffic was not a problem.

Ashore again at 20.00 and into a pizza restaurant, where the waiter promptly annoyed Jack, so we left.  I took him to a polo theme bar, gave him a beer to calm him down.

Moved onto a tapas bar ‘El Pincho’, where we shared a large bowl of mussels, salad, potatoes and red wine, it was great.

Next door into ‘In De Vivin’ bar, this used to be part of the old fish market and had a lot of character, with more red wine, it was a charming place.

At midnight, we returned to our town quay, after an amazing, successful day.

Day 7 - Haarlemsche Yacht Club

Tuesday 9^th June 2015 – Haarlemsche Yacht Club – Day 7

Another cold overcast day, after a leisurely morning, we left the visitors box and moved round to the marina fuel berth, took on 30 litres of diesel at 1 euro a litre.

Departing from Ijmuiden sea port marina at 13.15, into the river passing the large DFDS ferry which runs between Newcastle and here, I may use it, on my next visit to Holland.

Kleinsluis

You are confronted with four locks ahead and the sports boats (yachts) are directed into the southern lock. We were in the Klein Sluis at 13.30.  It is traffic signal system which tells you when to wait, enter or leave the lock.  We were lifted upwards and out of the lock at 14.00 and entered the Nordzeekanal.

Tanker

 

Car Carrier

This canal is very busy with a lot of commercial traffic, needless to say, you keep very close to the canal side, when these large ships are passing.

Buitenhuizerbrug

After 10 kilometres along the canal we turned right into Zijkanal C and passed through Buitenhuizerbrug, a lifting bridge, the first of many.

A9 Bridge

By 15.45, we were tied up against a lay-by berth, waiting for the main A9 highway bridge, a main route in and out of Amsterdam.

It was not until four hours later, after the rush hour traffic had cleared, did they open the bridge and we passed through.

The same as the locks, you are guided by the traffic lights on the bridge; red means stop, red over green means get ready; green go, when the bridge is lifted. 

We were to learn how to use this system, and to be as close to the bridge on the go signal, going through at your fastest, safest speed.  Getting it right, you did not get a dirty look, but a friendly wave from the bridge operator.

We then moved onto Spaarndam lifting bridge and lock, where you had to pay a toll of three euros fifty cent, to the cashier at the lock office.  While waiting in the locks, I asked the yacht ahead of us where to stay for the night and he recommended his yacht club, not too far away.

Safe for the night

We followed him into Haarlemsche Yacht Club and he directed us onto berth 147, we were tied up at 20.30.

Into the yacht club at 21.00, to find the place was closing up, we were given one beer and were back on board by 22.00.  A party of fruity malt, cheese, tomatoes and hot drinks, we were all in bed for 23.00; an eventful day.