Day 25 - Enkhuizen

Saturday 27^th June 2015 – Enkhuizen – Day 25

Most of the morning and afternoon spent on the computer. (really sad)

Main Shopping Street

Around 15.00 went off down the Westerstraat, main shopping street to the supermarket.

There was a wedding going on in the main street church, I was amazed by the clothes the young men were wearing, afraid this latest fashion is not for me.

Town Hall

   

Main Church

On the way to the supermarket you also pass by these impressive buildings.

At night went back to the station to meet the latest crew member, Syd Trugden from Penzance, whom I sailed with on the tallship.

Met him at 23.00, he had flown from Exeter to Schipol airport, Amsterdam, then train to Enkhuisen.

Went into the nearby ‘Hotel du Compaigne’ and drank expensive Belgian beer before going on board for midnight.

Good to have another crew member on board.

Day 24 - Enkhuizen

Friday 26^th June 2015 – Enkhuizen – Day 24

Zuiderzee Museum

In the morning Dave went to the close-by Zuiderzee museum, I had previously been there when I last visited Enkhuizen, it is well worth the visit.

I busied myself with cleaning the boat and once more removing the water from the engine compartment.

In the afternoon went to the station, a fifteen minute walk from the marina, and a farewell coffee and tea in the platform café.

Dave's train

Dave boarded the 16.24 for his one hour journey to Amsterdam, a change of train, which would take to the Hook of Holland and the night ferry to Harwich.

Thank you very much for your time Dave and the enjoyment of seeing another part of Holland, around Flevoland.

Idyllic

Close to the station is this wonderful park and residential area, a very peaceful part of this bustling town.

I carried on exploring different parts of the town, before returning to the boat and spent the evening catching up on the computer.

The night walk found the town very busy, although it was now starting to lightly rain after the warm sunny morning.  Last stop the ‘Café Kop’ before retiring to bed at 23.30.

It had been a nice quiet day.

Day 23 - Enkhuizen

Thursday 25^th June 2015 – Enkhuizen – Day 23

Duck on a rudder

Awoke this morning to find on the next boat, this duck who had found himself a nice little spot stood on top of the rudder having a sleep.

Ashore and found a shop where I purchased a new MP3 cable to connect to my entertainment radio, as of late the playback had been very hit and miss.

Wind turbine work boat

A walk round the harbour and found the wind turbine work boats on which the Welsh lads we met last night drive around the Ijsselmeer.  You know it is Welsh, it has the red dragon on the side and an unpronounceable name.

Dave in relax mode

Before setting off an ice tea for me and a coffee for Dave in the nearby ‘Havenzicht’ bar. 

We left Urk at mid-day, hoisted the main inside the harbour entrance and headed out across the Ijsselmeer, keeping a very careful eye on the buoys which took us along to the end of the Markermeer dam.

Half-way across we were confronted with an array of fishing pots flags and picked our way through. 

Enkhuizen marina

On the beautiful sunny warm day the wind died  and motored into our destination at Enkhuizen and were allocated box C5 in the marina.

On this day, brought out the banjo, sat in the cockpit entertaining myself and others when along came this wonderful sight.

A Grebe, with one of it’s chicks on its back, hitching a ride.

In the evening, a walk ashore to the station, on the way passing the very pretty canals, crossing over the famous Dutch draw bridges.  There are many little harbours within this town with boats of many shapes and sizes.

Dromedaris Tower

Walking by the Dromedaris tower, the local youths were throwing themselves into the canal beside the draw bridge, either to cool off or impress the gathering young ladies.

A meal in the Italian restaurant ‘Conto Vecchio’, before going further into the town centre to the bar ‘De Enckhuyser’, where we sat in the last of the sunshine and pleasantly watched the world go by.

We ended up in the ‘Café Kop’, the nearest one to the marina for a night cap and were back on board for midnight.

A day in which we had crossed the Ijsselmeer from Friesland to Noord-Holland; in wonderful conditions, and taken in the sights of two different but delightful towns.

Day 22 - Urk

Wednesday 24^th June 2015 – Urk – Day 22

This morning we will be leaving Flevoland and one has to remember how this island was reclaimed by the Dutch, who are forever taking on and battling with the water wolf.

From 1950-57, eastern and from 1959- 67 southern Flevoland were drained to form a new province.  It has a feature which is useful to cruising yachtsmen, a continuous band of deep water around the polder, maintains the correct ground-water table in the neighbouring ‘old’ land. 

The Randmeren lakes have subsequently been developed, as recreational areas of water with carefully landscaped banks and many facilities, including those for fishing and cruising, with the ideal combination of old Zuiderzee towns such as Spakenburg, Harderwijk and Elburg on the east and south banks and brand new yacht havens on the west and north banks.

Awe-inspiring is the thought when standing by the roadside in south Flevoland, every house, hedge, canal, field, garden and road as far as the eye can see is 4 metres below sea level and came into existence only since the polder was drained in 1967.

Ketelburg

We left Ketelmond marina at 09.00 and headed for the Ketelburg, connecting the north end of the island to the mainland.

 

Though the bridge showed an air draught of 12.8 meters, I did not want to go under the centre section, as there was a slight swell on the water and headed for the left hand opening section, along with some other yachts.

We were through at 10.30 and thankfully, it will be last for a little.  We are now in the Ijsselmeer, hoisted the mainsail, seventeen days since it was last used and the genoa, five days since it last had an airing. 

Urk Lighthouse

We were thoroughly enjoying the sailing in now warm sunny conditions, past the port entrance to take some shots of the lighthouse.

As we turned and headed out taking in the genoa, an almighty bang, as we hit something very solid.  Dave and I both looked at the echo-sounder, showing 0.9 metres below the keel.

Sails in quickly and checked for damage but none was evident and we were still watertight.

After discussions with some of the locals, discovered the rocks off Urk, come up like church towers, I had just knocked the cross off one of them.  Of course, no rocks marked on the chart but we had missed a couple of cardinal marks, (poor look-outs; sailors beware).

Urk Marina

Alongside, in our box at 12.15 and mighty relieved, had lunch, then fell asleep in the cockpit.

Made good use of the marina facilities, and done two loads of washing in the laundry, cleaned the boat, also removed the water from the engine compartment, hopefully not the result of our rock contact.

Ashore at 19.30 to the very close ‘Havenzicht’ bar, before moving next door to the restaurant/bistro ‘De Zeeboder’  for spring onion soup, sea bass, followed by crème builee, all very nice.

We finished off in slightly more lively, ‘Schippertj’ bar, where we met some Welsh lads from Holyhead, who were driving the fast wind turbine work boats.  Unfortunately, the Ijsselmeer has a good share of wind farms.  An interesting chat with them on their hours of work; the local buoyage system for these fast craft; how the locals’ felt about them working here.

A very interesting day; completing part of the adventure; going round the inside of Flevoland; passing through the last of the large bridges and being back in the Ijsselmeer.

Day 21 - Ketelmond

Tuesday 23^rd June 2015 – Ketelmond – Day 21

During the night, relentless rain, extremely heavy at times and with Dave snoring like a troop, not much sleep (need ear defenders, not plugs).

In the morning the rain had not given up and still using the heater in the cabin.

Vispoortbrug

Early afternoon, the rain began to relent and walked around the town, to take in some of the history.

You enter the town through the impressive Vispoortbrug (town gate), after crossing the moat, part of the fortifications.

Part of the Moat

Elburg was built as a fortress in a rectangular pattern with an encircling wall in the 14^th century.  The moat and ramparts were added soon after and not much has changed since.

Church enclosed by town wall

   

Main Street

Of course, most of the dwellings have been modernised, but it has an enchantment about it, in the square pattern of the narrow streets.

In Holland, this historic place is very well preserved and one for the visitors, who I am sure flock here in the times of fine weather.

Roggerbotsluis

We left at 14.00 and returned to the Randmeren, an hour later, we were waiting at Roggerbotsluis, clear of the lock and bridge half an hour later.

Now the waterway was beginning to open out, as we were passing numerous small islands with trees in abundance, reed beds running along the shore.  Along the banks, an abundance of bird life with for the first time, flocks of cormorants.

At 16.30, we entered the Ketelmeer with a north westerly wind,force 4/5, choppy sea and making little progress, as we came into the main shipping lane, with large barges coming into play.

Ketelmond Marina

The harbour master at Elburg had told me there was nothing at Ketelmond, but it looked very inviting, as a place of shelter, so we headed in, and very grateful to be alongside the pontoon at 17.00.

The harbour master here, gave me very good information on the forthcoming weather and the operation of the next large bridge, our challenge for tomorrow.

At 19.00, ashore to the end of the marina and the bar restaurant ‘Land’s End’, at the top of Flevoland, with a fine view over the Ketelmond and bridge beyond.

We dined on a very nice rack of lamb in peaceful surroundings; it was good, to be in such a delightful port of refuge.

Day 20 - Elburg

Monday 22^nd June 2015 – Elburg – Day 20

Nesting Coot

Going ashore and coming back on board in Harderwijk, we had to be very quiet and careful, as just below us on the pontoon was this nesting coot.  The male used to show a bit of bravado, but we never disturbed the nesting bird.

In the morning, Dave went off to the dolphinarium, he was not going to be alone, as I watched the school trip buses draw up and off came the excited kids.  Dave, informed, there was plenty room inside for everyone and he thoroughly enjoyed the show.

I went wandering around the town on a photo-shoot.

Art

   

Town Gate

An unusual piece of art; standing in the lake, opposite the restaurant where we had eaten the night before.

The town gate with its lighthouse on top.

Harderwijk

Harderwijk is a very attractive town which draws a lot of visitors to the sea life park, the many water sports which take place on the lake, while there is an abundance of drinking and eating places.

Aquaduct

We left the town at 14.15 and fifteen minutes later we crossed the aquaduct, where the canal passes over a dual carriage highway, this is an unusual feeling, hearing and seeing traffic passing below you.

Tranquil Shoeline

This part of the Randmeren is very pretty especially around Bremerbergse Heol, where you run close to the shore, the reed beds with little inlets dotted about.

There is an abundance of wild life, with large flocks of swans, ducks their young keeping up behind.  The heron poised on the banks waiting for their next meal.

We also past a sandy cove aptly named Riviera Beach with people out enjoying the scenery.

Downside being, it is the longest day of the year, why is it so cold?  The biting northerly wind is the answer.

We passed through our only bridge of the day approaching Elburg, a sharp turn to the right and down the river, past many moored up boats.  There is a thriving industry going on here, with large building and repair yards for a variety of motor cruisers.

Elburg Marina

An ideal spot to tie-up, next to the Havermeester’s office, and amenities block.

At 19.30 we were ashore in this medieval town but most of the places were closed, went into the ‘Zivlerzoen’ restaurant, menu was not to our liking, had a nice beer and left.

Around the corner, found ‘Woodies’ pub, with an owner who spoke excellent English, his good lady made us tomato soup, then big meat balls, chips with mayo.  While the owner, whose passion was country & western music, he sang a Don Williams song on the karaoke machine for us.

While sat at the bar after the meal, I asked if I could join him with his singing, he passed me the microphone, I sang Elvis’s, ‘Falling in Love with you, luckily, there were only four of us in the pub.

When we left for the boat, it started to rain, but it did not dampen our spirits, as it had been another adventurous, satisfying day.

Day 19 - Harderwijk

Sunday 21^st June 2015 – Harderwijk – Day 19

In the morning, we had a walk around the town but it was gesloten (closed), even though it was Sunday and just before midday, tipping with rain, it looked as though nothing would be opening today.

Botters' Yard

Found our way along the river to the botters’ repair yard which was wide open, had a good look round.  Good to see they are still looking after these fine vessels, many of which are over 100 years old.

   

In the square; a fine statute of a lady in her traditional costume, smiling and glistening in the rain.

With botters, looking forlorn, wanting to be away.

We left  Spakenburg at 13.30 with nobody about to see us off, an hour later we were at the Nijkerker sluis lay-by berth.

   

We were on the lay-by for 15 minutes before being allowed through and continued our voyage up the Randmeren, in a strong northerly breeze.

Arriving at Harderwijk, in a box next to the dolphinarium at 17.15.  We could hear the seals honking loudly, hoping they would not carry on with the noise into the night.

Harerwijk Marina

We had problems plugging into the electrical shore supply but a friendly Dutch cruiser allowed us to plug into their on-board connection. 

We needed it, as we were still using the heater at night.

Ashore by 20.00; a couple of beers in Nick’s Inn, before moving onto the many restaurants, which overlooked the large lake on the Randmeren.  In the ‘Hotel Monpole’ had an excellent meal of onion soup, pork satay, with red wine, finished off the night on, oude genever (snapps).

Back on board for midnight, another day’s adventure, pity about the weather, it is so cold.

Day 18 - Spakenburg

Saturday 20^th June 2015 – Spakenburg – Day 18

In the winter, I had fitted a new wind instrument to the top of the mast, of late it had been reading erratically.  On deck, I found the socket plug loose; it was removed, cleaned and secured, everything now working fine.  At least, it saved a trip up the mast.

Dutch Botters

We left Almere Haven at 11.30 and quickly back into the Randmeren, it was here we encountered a lot of these traditional Dutch botters (work horses), these are only used as leisure craft now.

Previously, utilised for fishing and carrying cargoes round the then Zuiderzee.

De Kalkovers Restaurant

We were alongside in Huizen, which is on the south side of the Randmeren, on the mainland.  The ‘De Kalkovers’ restaurant is an imposing building with its conical chimneys.

It was an open day here with lots of people milling about, going out on the botters, we watched many loading and unloading their passengers, all enjoying themselves.

On the quayside, there was a band playing with an excellent lady singer, belting out blues/jazz, it was very relaxing, while we sat in the cockpit having our lunch.

Botter's workshop

We could not resist and went ashore to see part of the action, a walk up to the band, who were playing outside the botters workshop, which was holding an exhibition of local art.

Next door, we were fascinated by a blacksmith’s shop, watching for a while, as this robust lady, beat the living daylights out of a red hot piece of metal.

Botter's Racing

We could only stay in Huizen for an hour, when back in the Randmeren, there were more botters.

 This time, they were racing , as we passed by, watched them jockeying for position on the start line, a grand sight.

Stichtse Brug

At 14.00, we were at the next fixed Stichtse brug, which had an air draught of 13.5 metres, no problem for ‘Selene’, though I did notice a chip out of the concrete in the middle, so someone had made contact.

The line on two bladed windmills on the other side of the bridge, did nothing to enhance the landscape.

James Bond

At 14.45, we were entering the channel to the town of Spakenburg; the harbour was bustling with the unusual sight of a man standing on the end of water spout. (James bond style). 

here were lots of youngsters messing about in canoes, who kindly made an opening, so we could enter the marina and find ourselves a box, unfortunately the wrong one. Settling for one on the other side, where all of the action was taking place.

Stalls all the way down the quayside; most of them, selling smoked eels, a delicacy in these parts, not to my liking.

Eventually, we found the harbour master looking hassled pushing his bicycle, he informed, the festivities was for the opening of the new marina housing complex, we thought it was for us.  Apart from the man walking on the water, kids messing about in boats, a male voice choir and ladies in the town’s local costumes.

 

Seemingly, there are now only about sixty ladies left in the town who carry on the tradition of wearing these costumes.

We made our way to the yacht club bar which was in full swing, found ourselves a corner table and watched the enjoyable proceedings.  By 18.00 things were beginning to quieten down, some of the members related what had been happening, it was nice to be part of it.  They also recommended a restaurant for the night.

When we got there, no more tables left, but we were directed to a nearby pub and returned half an hour later.  Fish soup, followed by steak with a bottle of red wine, it was expensive but very enjoyable.

Back on board for midnight and a few night caps.  It had been an amazing day, wonderful sights, pleasure to see so many people enjoying themselves.